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Jerusalem Travel Diary

Views overlooking Jerusalem from the Austrian Hospice located in the Muslim Quarter

Jerusalem ~ The City of Gold

Jerusalem, one of the oldest and holiest cities in the world. The Old City has a history that is believed to go back more than 3,000 years, while the walls that surround the Old City were first built in 1538 by Suileman the Magnificent. A home to some of the most important and sacred religious sites for Muslims, Jews and Christians. Though, you do not have to be religious to appreciate this incredible intense city.  No matter what your belief, standing in a place with that much history is simply astounding!

Jerusalem, is often referred to as “The City of Gold” due to the golden dome of the Dome of the Rock, one of the most recognizable buildings in Jerusalem (as seen in the photo above) and for the way the sun reflects off the golden stone of the buildings in the city. 

A blog post isn’t enough to do this city justice, as the “feeling” of being there is indescribable. This post only scratches the surface, but I’ll do my best to share our experience with you and bring you on this surreal exploration.

The I Love Jerusalem statue found outside of the entrance to Jaffe Gate

A trip to Israel simply wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Jerusalem.  My husband and I rented a car and drove the short distance from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem. Within just an hour it’s as if we were transported back in time. If you are traveling to Israel, I highly recommend taking the time to spend at least a day discovering Jerusalem.

We spent our day exploring the Old City of Jerusalem. The Old City is compact and divided into four different quarters. The Christian, Jewish, Muslim and Armenian Quarters, each with its own unique qualities. Take your time exploring each different quarter soaking in all the various sights, sounds and smells. Beyond just the main historic sites, feel comfortable getting lost in all the zigzagging alleyways. When I say, get comfortable getting lost, that is because it is likely to happen as the alleys are not the easiest to navigate. One moment, you’ll be in crowds of tourists and the next, completely alone. I found a self guided walking tour online, but if you have more time, I suggest taking an actual tour as it would provide the history in much greater detail.

Let’s get started exploring the different quarters …

The Christian Quarter

We began our tour by entering the Jaffa Gate in the Christian Quarter, navigating through the crowds and finding our way to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is identified as being the site of Christ’s crucifixion, burial and resurrection. The last five stations of the cross are located inside the church.  The Church is maintained and shared by five different Christian groups; Roman Catholic, Greek Orthodox, Syrian Orthodox, Armenian and Coptic.

Although entering the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is intended to be a very spiritual experience, it is also extremely hectic. This was by far the busiest of all the sites we toured and we visited in low season. I can only imagine what it is like in peak season. Chaotic was not quite how I pictured the experience but it was meaningful nonetheless. My advice, either visit at sunrise when they open the doors or just do your best to take your time and not be overwhelmed by all the crowds.

Again, I would say, that no matter what your belief, this is an incredibly impactful experience. It is almost impossible not to be moved by the intensity surrounding you. From a historical perspective, in my opinion, this is something anyone can appreciate.

The Stone of Unction
View from above, looking at Stone of Unction
The Alter of the Crucifixion
The Via Dolorosa (“way of sorrows”) is a street in the old city of Jerusalem believed to be the path that Jesus walked during his crucifixion.

The Jewish Quarter

Heading into the Jewish Quarter, you will need to pass through security before entering through to the Western Wall, (Ha-Kotel Ha-Ma’aravi as it’s known in Hebrew) the holiest of Jewish sites.  Regardless of your religion, it’s a powerful experience see such a significant site and to witness so many people praying at one time. 

The site is free and open to all people. Be aware, that prayer sections are separated by a dividing screen, men’s section to the left and women’s, to the right. As always, it is important to be respectful and dress modestly.  I was prepared with a scarf to cover my legs if needed. My dress covered my shoulders and went to my knees, but I was prepared if I needed to cover more so.  It’s a good idea to carry a scarf when visiting religious sites in the case you need to cover your shoulders, head, etc.  I usually keep one in my purse for that reason. Men who want to go to the wall must wear a hat or take a free head covering from a box beside the entrance to the prayer area. Though, I did see men enter the area without either.

As I approached the wall, I noticed hundreds, if not thousands of pieces of paper slipped into the crevices of the wall. These small notes are written prayers by worshippers that have been tucked into the cracks between the stones. Which led me to wonder, what happens to all of those notes and prayers? I had to know … So, I asked and found out that twice a year, before Passover and before the Jewish New Year, the notes are removed and collected. Jewish law dictates that holy texts may not be destroyed and these pieces of paper fall into that category. In Jewish tradition, the pieces of paper are then buried in the sacred cemetery on the Mount of Olives.

From the Western Wall, you can also visit several museums, synagogues and The Cardo, which roughly 1,500 years ago was one of Jerusalems busiest roads and is now a modern shopping lane. You can also join tours for entry into the Western Wall tunnels, which need to be ordered in advance.

Worshippers and their prayers tucked in between the stones of the wall

The Muslim Quarter

The Muslim Quarter is the largest of the four quarters. The streets are much busier and are lined with merchants selling their various goods, from incense and spices to fresh pomegranate juice and falafel. You may also see several tour groups, as the first point of the Stations of the Cross on the famous Via Dolorosa begin in the Muslim Quarter. 

Within the Muslim Quarter is the large open plaza of Temple Mount where Al-Aqsa Mosque, Dome of the Rock and Dome of the Chain are located. Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter the Dome of the Rock but are able to walk around the plaza itself. Prior to entering, you’ll need to pass through a security checkpoint and modest dress is required. There are very limited hours for the Temple Mount, so be sure to check prior to visiting. 

One of my favorite views overlooking Jerusalem is found in the Muslim Quarter. Stop by the Austrian Hospice and head to the roof where you will find fabulous views overlooking the rooftops of Jerusalem. I cannot recall the exact price but there is a minimal fee to get to the roof – I think it’s equivalent to about two American dollars. They also have a small cafe where you can stop and have a coffee and apple strudel.  Don’t miss stopping at this location  … the view is fabulous!

Views from the roof of the Austrian Hospice

The Armenian Quarter

The smallest and quietest quarter of the Old City is the Armenian Quarter. We did not have an opportunity to stay long in this quarter but if you do, make sure to visit the Tower of David.  I read the views from there are stunning as well!

After a full day of exploring, it was time to head back to Tel Aviv. A day very well spent and an experience I am likely to never forget!

There you have it … our day in the Old City of Jerusalem. As always, thank you for taking the time to read this post! I hope this Jerusalem Travel Diary helped to give you a quick overview of the Old City.  If you find yourself in Israel or are planning a trip to visit soon, I highly recommend taking the time to visit Jerusalem. It is unlike anything I have ever experienced. 

If you found this Travel Diary helpful or have any additional thoughts or questions, please leave them in the comments. I am always happy to help!

Cheers,

Jen

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1 Comment

  1. Joan Berrios
    February 12, 2020 / 5:20 pm

    Jen, once again you covered your trip beautifully. Loved the descriptions and the pics. Love traveling thru your eyes😘🌹. Keep up,the good work! Enjoy 🌹🌹🌹🌹

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